Installation questions regarding ceramic tile, porcelain tile, stone, brick, glass tile, and terrazzo.
Expert Answers Categories
- Ceramic and Porcelain Tile
- Concrete Substrate Slab
- Counter tops
- Debonding Tile
- Decorative Tiles
- Discontinued Tile
- Floor Warming
- Glass Tile
- Hollow Sounding Tiles
- Installation Guidelines
- Metal Tiles
- Moisture Problems
- Movement Joints
- Optical Haze
- Pool and Spa
- Slip Resistance
- Sound Control
- Wet Areas
Excessive efflorescence staining (generally a whitish substance) on stone, tiles, grout, or adjacent surfaces is a generally a symptom of an excessive moisture problem.
First you need to make sure you are using a non-sanded grout, which is necessary for grout joint widths less than 1/8″ wide or the grout won’t fit in. Sanded grout could scratch the tile surface if the glaze isn’t hard enough.
Why did my Tile Grout Crack? Was the tile installed properly? What Tile method should be used to Replace the floor?
If you don’t understand what the problem is then you risk the problem reoccurring or other problems can occur.
Generally speaking allowing the concrete to cure for 28 days allows it to achieve 90% cure and there is no significant shrinkage in the concrete after that in terms of installing ceramic tile over it.
There are a lot of variables and depending on the application, what conditions it will be subjected to, and what the condition of the slab is will depend on what is the appropriate installation method and materials.
The tile nor the stucco should be installed directly over plywood. The plywood will expand and warp when exposed to moisture.
One more question on mortar for setting ceramic tiles in a mural: you recommended a thinset mortar conforming to ANSI A118.11, on 1/4″ concrete Hardiebacker board screwed and glued to 3/4″ plywood. I built the mural frames, complete with Hardiebacker board, and ordered the mortar, but received Rapid Set Mortar Mix (high strength construction mortar, to be applied 1/2 to 6″ thick), conforming to ASTM C928 and ICC 5102.
Where can i get frost proof fixer and grout please, cheers?
What is the proper way to install tile over a wood subfloor assembly? The joists are Douglas Fir 9 inch x 1.5 inch. The walls are poured cement. There is a metal I-beam going the length of the house from under the garage of spancrete to under the hall and bedrooms common wall east to west. The Depths of the house is about 27 feet. The measure from the back wall to the metal beam is about 15 feet.
Is there a high performance adhesive to attach 18″x13″ ceramic tile to mdf/maple cabinet doors? The doors are inset with ceramic tiled wall so when complete all tile will be flush with about 1/4″+ space for adhesive.
I have recently purchased a home with an island kitchen and across on wall counter. Is there any durable product which could be use over the tiles to create a flat surface? Heavy polyurethane does not seem like the right thing to do.
Is there any difference in the cost per unit of installing the first 100 square ft of tile as compared to the last 100 square ft
I am installing 12 inch by 12 inch by 1 inch thick travertine pavers as coping for an partially in ground Endless Pool that is located in the interior of the home. The pool walls are powder coated steel. Can I install the pavers directly on top of the steel(this is the method I would prefer for aesthetics)? Or is a backer board mandatory? Could the backer board be attached with adhesive if it is required?