Do I need to Seal my Porcelain Tile and Grout?

QUESTION

The new home that I bought is brand new and we just found out that the grout needs to be sealed. It is a light gray porcelain tile with white Mapei grout. They are offering to seal the grout for us for the following prices and with the following products. We thought we should check with you first to see if you think the price is reasonable or if we could get a better price elsewhere. Also to see which product would be best and what you would recommend.

"Another opportunity is to have grout sealer applied. Grout is porous and Vintage Design does recommend sealing the grout.
Commercially graded sealer $2,027 this process would not need to be reapplied for 2 to 3 years.
Grout stain/ epoxy based grout sealer $2,544 this process would not need to be reapplied for 10 years."

ANSWER

ANSWER - I would not do either option.  Their prices are extremely high.  You can do it yourself for probably less than $100.

First of all you don’t really need to seal your grout.  I assume it is a cementitious grout, which is porous.  Put generally speaking you don’t have to seal it.  It will get darker over time whether you seal it or not, but it will be easier to clean and will less likely stain if you do seal it.

I assume you have a glazed porcelain tile.  Porcelain is a type of ceramic tile that is impervious, which means its absorption is ½ of 1 percent or less.   So porcelain clay doesn’t readily stain.  Although some unglazed porcelain tiles can have microscopic out-gassing voids that can possibly trap stains of certain products if they are not cleaned up readily or properly.

If you do have a glazed porcelain tile then you have an impervious glass-like coating over the surface of the porcelain tile body and it is even more stain resistant.   So it is only the grout that can have a propensity to stain depending on the conditions it is subjected to.

I do like to apply certain sealers over glazed tiles and cementitious grout mainly because it provides a coating on the tile and grout that will help keep some substances from readily sticking to it; so the tile doesn’t tend to pick up dirt and it is easier to clean and keep clean.  Although sealers don’t last that long.  Depending on its exposure to foot traffic and frequency of cleaning it can wear.  The test for determining that it is still working is that when you put drops of water on the tile or grout joint, the water beads up like water on wax.  If the grout turns dark then the sealer isn't blocking it.

I would recommend that you use Miracle Sealants 511 Impregnator Sealer that you can buy at Home Depot or a similar product.  See product details by clicking on this link:  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Miracle-Sealants-32-oz-Impregnator-Penetrating-Sealer-511-QT-H/100076375.

Since your tile is impervious you won’t need much sealer because the tile will not absorb much.  All you probably need is a 32 oz bottle depending on how many square feet of tile you have.   It is important that you apply it correctly.  The floor tile and grout have to be completely clean and dry.  If there are any stains in the grout then you will trap them in by applying the sealer over it.   Get a clean link free cloth e.g. traditional baby diaper or some applicator pad.  You can put the sealer in a plastic spray bottle and mist over the tile and grout.  Put more on the grout than the tile, since the grout will absorb the sealer.  Then immediately spread around and wipe up the excess sealer.  Once the cloth is damp with sealer you can just spray the sealer over the grout joints and when you wipe up the excess with the cloth you can apply it to other adjacent tiles my simply wiping it over their surfaces.  Once the cloth is too damp to wipe up excess sealer get another clean and dry cloth.  It is important not to leave any excess sealer on the tile surface because it won’t get absorbed and it can leave a sticky surface that can become a maintenance problem.  Make sure you follow the sealer manufacturer's directions.

48 thoughts on “Do I need to Seal my Porcelain Tile and Grout?

  1. Eion Lee says:

    Its really a wonderful blog.Well I have got Miracle Sealants 511 Impregnator Sealer for my home and got a very positive result.Thanks for sharing this blog.

  2. Mark B. says:

    Can i get some advice on my terrace tiles please, i am not sure what material it is and would like to seal them but also enhance the tile colour at the same time. Could you advise on what product and possibly who might sell it in Romania.

    It is a wood like effect on my terrace but not polished (glazed).

  3. Donato Pompo says:

    It is important to know what your tiles are made of to determine what is best to seal them with.

    Generally speaking using a penetrating sealer is best because it is a breathable sealer. There are versions of penetrating sealers that are enhancers that give the tile more of a wet look.

    I would avoid the surface type of sealers that give the tile more of glossy appearance, because they are not breathable sealers and can trap moisture in the tile that can cause certain types of staining.

    On our website in the resource section we do have a list of sealer manufacturers with links to their websites. You should visit those sites to help you determine what type of tile you have and which sealer is best for your situation. Click on this link to go to that page: https://ctasc.com/category/resources/cleaners-sealers/

  4. Richard V Lown says:

    I have recently installed an unglazed porcelain tile in about 400 sq. ft. of my home. The tile is supposedly polished, but doesn’t look very shiny. I was told by a tile supply house that Miracle Sealants Company Professional Choice 511 Seal & Enhance would seal the grout and make the tiles shine. I applied and removed excess according to the directions. I now have a sticky residue that I have been trying to rub off with clean tiles. Is there a recommended way to remove the sticky residue of this product without removing the sealer for the tile and grout completely? Getting frustrated with this product…. Any suggestions?

    • Donato Pompo says:

      Miracle 511 Sealer is designed to maintain a natural look, and try not to affect the appearance of the tile or stone. It is a penetrating sealer.

      You are applying the sealer over an impervious tile, so it will not absorb much other than on a microscopic level.

      The problem is you applied the sealer too heavy of an application and/or you did not buff it dry with a lint free cloth right after you apply the sealer.

      To remove the sticky residue, apply more of the 511 sealer that will act as a solvent to loosen up the residue. Let it stand on the tile for maybe 5 minutes or less, and then before it dries buff the floor dry with a dry lint free cloth. This should remove the sticky surface.

      If your porcelain tile is polished it would be obvious. Maybe you have a glazed porcelain tile if it has somewhat of a sheen. There is no practical way to make the glazed tile more shinny unless you apply a wax and buff the floor which creates a lot of maintenance work.

      Or if the tile is in fact an unglazed porcelain tile that has been polished, maybe it only has a hone surface that gives a slight sheen. Unglazed porcelain tiles can be polished like a natural granite, but you would need to hire a professional stone restoration company to do that work.

  5. Richard V Lown says:

    Thank you for your response and for the advice you offer. We are definitely dealing with an unglazed porcelain tile… We are going to try your suggestion today. Can you give me an idea how long we should wait for the 511 Seal & Enhance to “dry” after buffing the material off the tiles? Also, it is a “polished” darker grey tile with almost no sheen prior to applying the 511 Seal & Enhance. We were trying to enhance the sheen, but notice that the 511 Seal & Enhance not only remains tacky, but also tends to show every smudge or footprint when walking barefoot on the floor. Is this primarily due to the darker color or is there something we can do to eliminate that issue?

    • Donato Pompo says:

      When you said Miracle 511 sealer, I assumed you were referring to the 511 impregnator that doesn’t alter the appearance of the tile. The 511 Seal & Enhance is to give the tile more of a wet look. Although with an impervious unglazed porcelain tile it won’t absorb much.

      The cause and solution of your problem with the tacky finish is still the same. You have to almost immediately buff the floor dry after applying the sealer.

      Polished tiles have a sheen, so if you don’t have a sheen, then you don’t have a polished tile. Maybe it is honed finished with a slight sheen, or just a smooth unglazed porcelain tile finish.

      The issue is how you apply the sealer. You have to buff it dry with a lint free cloth and if you do it correctly it should not be tacky or leave smudges. If that doesn’t work, then don’t use a sealer. The tile really doesn’t need the sealer because it is impervious.

    • Donato Pompo says:

      Over the years I have used the Miracle 511 Impregnator sealer on porcelain tile and I have not had a problem. Since the porcelain tile is impervious, spray the sealer on and wipe with a lint free cloth make sure it is applied evenly and to absorb any residual sealer. Check with the manufacturer as to what they say about using it over a porcelain tile.

  6. Kenesha says:

    Hello. I recently had an installation of glazed porcelain tile. I was told I could apply the sealant as a spray or pour it on in sections, and then use a squeegee to clean up the excess and get the sealant off the tiles. Will this work?

    • Donato Pompo says:

      I assume you mean that you want to seal the porous cementitious grout between the glazed tiles. Yes you can spray or apply with a cloth the grout sealer. Since only the grout will absorb it, you want to buff dry the surface of the tile with a dry lint free cloth right after you apply the sealer. Otherwise the sealer on the tile surface can become sticky and cause a problem.

  7. Wendy Sanders says:

    We live in a two-story home, and the shower stall of master bath is over the ceiling of the kitchen. We have, on several occasions the past few months noticed a couple of wet spots (bubbles and/or peeling texture) on this ceiling area after we shower. We have checked the plumbing behind the faucet and cannot detect any leaks. We have combed the tile floor, re-caulked the shower floor edges, and checked for any large cracks in grout and have not found any. My question is can small grout cracks along the edges of upright (wall) porcelain tile allow enough water through to cause these leaks? The shower tile work was done 9.5 years ago. Should we play it safe and regrout the entire shower stall?

    • Donato Pompo says:

      If the ceiling below your shower shows wet spots and it is peeling, then you probably have a serious problem. The ceiling is probably a gypsum based board that when wet will deteriorate and can develop microbial growth (mold).

      Cementitious grout is porous and water can migrate through it. If the grout is cracked then it can more readily pass through the grout.

      The shower pan is suppose to be fully waterproof to be code compliant. So if water is getting by then it is likely that the waterproofing on the shower floor was not installed correctly. There can be a number of different deficiencies. The only way to determine where it is leaking from and how to fix it, is to have a company like http://www.CTaSC.com perform an intrusive forensic inspection.

      Having a leak like that should be covered by your home insurance. I would call them and file a claim. Generally, even if the shower pan had been originally installed wrong, they will still cover the cost of the loss.

  8. Donna Lidke says:

    I have non glazed porcelain tile in my2 bathrooms. I noticed in 1 of the bathrooms the grout is cracking. Do I regrout the cracks and then put a seal over the grout and tile?

  9. Donato Pompo says:

    The question is what caused the grout to crack. If there is too much deflection in the floor or there are not adequate movement joints in the tiled floor or if the tile is loose, then regrouting the tile is not going to solve the problem. If the grout cracked because it was not properly applied in filling the grout joints, then regrouting would work.

    Note that even if you have the same grout product that was originally used the new grout may look different. Over time it might blend in with the other grout. Sealing the grout won’t prevent grout from cracking, but it helps make it more stain resistant and easier to keep clean.

  10. Andrea says:

    I recently had my pool waterline tile replaced. They used a light grey colored grout, which looks great with the tile when dry, but when it gets wet, it looks black and moldy! I looked at the grout bag and it says that it is waterproof and that it does not need to be sealed, but I am wondering if sealing it with the right product might prevent this? I want to make sure that the sealer doesn’t make it look wet, which is the opposite of what I want in this case.

    • Donato Pompo says:

      Most grouts are not waterproof. Cementitous grouts that have polymers or latex in them are water resistant. Epoxy grouts are in theory impervious, but they can still possibly absorb to a small degree because impervious means it has no more absorption than 1/2 of 1% (0.5%). Using sealers will not waterproof the grout, but it makes it water resistant. When water first comes into contact with a sealed cementitious grout joint it will not darken it, but if left over time water will seep into it. Plus sealers don’t last long in an exterior environment. Wanting the grout not to change color when subjected to water might not be possible. The epoxy grout has the best chance of achieving that.

      • Andrea says:

        Thank you for this. So, the grout that is going to actually be under water all the time will look dark unless I remove that and replace it with lighter grout? Is there any way to lighten the color without removing it? The tile was just installed and looks great otherwise.

        • Donato Pompo says:

          It is normal for grout to darken when in water. If you try to replace the grout it might lead to other problems and it will likely still turn dark.

  11. STACY L HELLER says:

    I replaced my entire house with porcelain tile that looks like wood. It is whitish and the grout is (or was) white My beautiful new floor look dirty because of stains in the grout. Mind you, the new floor is less than 7 months old. How do I clean the white grout and should/Could I seal the grout. We spent a fortune and used a very well known Tile store and they had thier installers do the job. I’m curious…should they have used a non-porous grout and/or sealed the grout when ist was being laid? Thank you for your response!!
    Stacy

    • Donato Pompo says:

      Having a white grout will be more difficult to keep clean. You can seal the grout that will help prevent it from getting dirty so fast and make it easier to clean. Although before you seal the tile you have to thoroughly clean the grout and floor so you don’t seal the dirt in.

      The key to cleaning is using a bristle brush on an extended handle and get a floor cleaning detergent or degreaser and scrub the floor and grout. Let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes and scrub again. Then use a wet/dry vacuum to pick up the dirty water. People who use mops and don’t remove the dirty water end up moving it around and after the water evaporates it leaves the dirty residuals on the grout that causes it to stain. Rinse the floor and again use a wet vacuum to pick up the water. You can then buff dry the floor with a lint free cloth.

      After the floor tile and grout is clean and dry you can apply a sealer as described in the above responses.

  12. Monika says:

    I apologize in advance for the repetitive question. I recently had my first floor home redone in a very dark wood looking glazed porcelain tile. There is no sheen and the tile looks dusty and grey. When I mop the floor, the matte finish disappears and I see a beautiful brown wood finish (wet look). All of your recommendations direct us to not use any type of sealants of glazed porcelain tile, yet I was wondering how you felt about GlazeGuard satin by Covertec. I am torn and do not want to make a huge mistake that I will regret. Thank you for your help- it’s just that I feel bad about spending a fortune on tiles to not see the beauty and potential in colors that my tiles could have.

    • Donato Pompo says:

      If the installed tile does not look like the tile before it was installed they you must have some sort of a grout or thin-set haze on the tile. Sometimes a diluted solution of vinegar will remove cementitious haze. If it is a latex haze then there are latex haze removers. I would first go to your tile store and buy the haze remover and test it out to see if it works.

      If the tile appearance hasn’t changed after being installed then you want to change the natural appearance of the tile. There are liquid waxes that you can apply to give a sheen, but they do wear off and you do have to strip them off from time to time so it does increase the maintenance.

  13. Patricia Murray says:

    Hello, Pat here. June 2017 contractor finished a 16 x 20 enclose three season sunroom. It is attached to our home and is 3.5 feet to 4.5 feet elevation off the found. At the time my husband did not want this porch insulated . We have porcelain tile. it is in need of grout and tile cleaning and sealing. Can you recommend A DIY solution. My husband has limited abilities so I believe I can do this.

    • Donato Pompo says:

      You should first thoroughly clean the grout and floor and then seal the tile and grout after they are can and dry.

      The key to cleaning is using a bristle brush on an extended handle and get a floor cleaning detergent or degreaser and scrub the floor and grout. Let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes and scrub again. Then use a wet/dry vacuum to pick up the dirty water. People who use mops and don’t remove the dirty water end up moving it around and after the water evaporates it leaves the dirty residuals on the grout that causes it to stain. Rinse the floor and again use a wet vacuum to pick up the water. You can then buff dry the floor with a lint free cloth.

      After the floor tile and grout is clean and dry you can apply a sealer
      I would recommend a product like Miracle Sealants 511 Impregnator Sealer that you can buy at Home Depot or a similar product.

      Since your tile is impervious you won’t need much sealer because the tile will not absorb much. All you probably need is a 16 oz bottle depending on how many square feet of tile you have. It is important that you apply it correctly. The floor tile and grout have to be completely clean and dry. If there are any stains in the grout then you will trap them in by applying the sealer over it. Get a clean link free cloth e.g. traditional baby diaper or some applicator pad. You can put the sealer in a plastic spray bottle and mist over the tile and grout. Put more on the grout than the tile, since the grout will absorb the sealer. Then immediately spread around and wipe up the excess sealer. Once the cloth is damp with sealer you can just spray the sealer over the grout joints and when you wipe up the excess with the cloth you can apply it to other adjacent tiles my simply wiping it over their surfaces. Once the cloth is too damp to wipe up excess sealer get another clean and dry cloth. It is important not to leave any excess sealer on the tile surface because it won’t get absorbed and it can leave a sticky surface that can become a maintenance problem. Make sure you follow the sealer manufacturer’s directions.

  14. BG says:

    We had our home remodeled and the majority of the tile used, is a matte 24×24 white/gray porcelain…there is also 12×24 in the bathrooms.

    I noticed the construction crew using various grout products from Custom Building Products…Fusion Pro, Polyblend, no sanded grout and Prism Ultimate Performance. I also noticed a product called Ardex.

    I have a bit of a grout haze and would like to have the tile professionally cleaned…some of the grout is dirty, as well. The tile has been down a month or so.

    Is it advisable to have the grout sealed (color sealed) to make it more maintenance friendly at the same time when it is being cleaned ? OR are these grout products really stain resistant as the label indicates ? The GC says NOT to seal the grout.

    Would appreciate your opinion…

    Thanks

    • Donato Pompo says:

      The Custom Fusion and Prism grouts do say you don’t need to seal them. I believe that the Fusion grout is a premixed urethane grout so you will have to verify whether it can still be sealed or not.

      Even though the porcelain tile is technically impervious at 0.5% absorption or less it can be beneficial to seal it and the cementitious grouts. The sealer can act as a bond breaker so that things don’t stick as readily to it and and it will be easier to clean. Although you have to make sure you immediately buff the dry the tile surface after applying the sealer since not much will absorb or otherwise it can leave a stick residue.

      Be sure to test whatever you decide to do in a small out of the way area to make sure you are satisfied with the results.

  15. Mike Sanders says:

    I like what you said about getting a coating applied to your tile to prevent substances from sticking to it. My sister has been telling me about how she wants to make sure that her floor is nice in the coming weeks. I’ll share this information with her so that she can look into her options for professionals who can help her with sealing.

  16. Cynthia Alexander says:

    We installed a beautiful custom porous hex tile floor yesterday in our 1910 home and applied Laticrete porous tile penetrator sealer this morning. The sealer directions state the cure time is 24-72 hours. Do we need to wait that long to apply the grout 9r can it be done sooner? Grout is mapei ultracolor plus FA for 1/16 grout lines.

    • Donato Pompo says:

      In order to keep the manufacturer’s warranty valid you have to follow their directions.

      The key is allowing the moisture in the tile and grout to evaporate so you don’t trap it in or otherwise you can get kind of a cloudy effect that could possibly occur in some cases.

  17. Karen Smith says:

    I have 4 high gloss white tiles in my bathroom that, over a couple of days after cleaning, start to feel rough and dust sticks to them, making them look and feel horrible. The other tiles are not affected. The toilet seat is also affected this way. I suspect the previous owner used a lot of hairspray… what can I do? Can I re-seal these tiles?

    • Donato Pompo says:

      High gloss glazed tiles sometimes are softer glazes and more susceptible to abrasion damage and chemical etching. In these cases the glazed surface has been physically altered and there isn’t any way to remove it.

      If you have a substance on the tile that is sticky then use a detergent or goof-off to see if it will remove. Test it on a small area first before proceeding to make sure it gives you satisfactory results.

      High gloss glazed tiles are impervious and don’t need to be sealed.

  18. Radha says:

    I have a newly built house with Woodlike Porcelain tile in the entire floor. My question is should I seal the grout with the clear sealant or the entire floor with the entire sealant as doing it for the entire floor seems to be lesser work than sealing the grouts. However, from safety point of view is it advisable.

    I have tiles in my bathroom shower and the wall. Should i just seal the grout there than the entire floor as it can make the floor slippery. Please advise

    • Donato Pompo says:

      Porcelain tiles that are throughbody or have a glaze surface are impervious so they are resistant to staining. The cementitous grouts are porous more susceptible to staining and tend to require a lot of maintenance to keep them clean and preserve the original color.

      It is tedious to try to only seal the grout joint. What I do is use a penetrating sealer and apply it with a lint free cloth by damping it. Then right away buff the floor dry with a dry lint free cloth so you wipe off any residuals that if left could become sticky and be a problem.

      By sealing tile and grout it makes those surfaces easier to maintain. Dirt won’t tent to cling to it. Liquid spills will tend to bead up and easier to clean up. If you use sealers like Miracle 511 Impregnator they say it makes the time less slippery. Years ago they had silicone sealers and they would make the tile surface very slippery.

      Sealers don’t last that long depending on what the floor tile is subjected to. Typically you need to reseal every 6 months to a year. If you place a drop of water on the grout it should bead up and should not absorb readily into the grout. If it does, then it is time to deep clean, dry and reseal.

  19. RobertJohnson says:

    We just had 12×24 matte porcelain installed in our showers. Sorry if I am repetitive, but confused from many answers given. Do we need to only seal the grout or do we need to seal both grout and tiles?

    • Donato Pompo says:

      I always seal the tile and the grout. The porcelain tile is very dense so it doesn’t take much sealer. Must use the right kind of penetrating sealer. Be sure to wipe the tile with a dry lint free cloth right after applying the sealer to the tile as it won’t absorb much and if left on it will get tacky and be a problem.

  20. Sharon says:

    I want to stain the grout but unsure of the steps. After cleaning the 4 year old glazed porcelain 12×24 tile and non-sealed (I think sanded or sanded cement grout), what steps should I take first? Should I use the 511 Impregnator Sealer first; and, stain the grout the new color next?

    • Donato Pompo says:

      Do not seal the grout or the staining won’t work. Purchase an epoxy grout colorant for the color you want to achieve. Clean the grout thoroughly per the grout colorant manufacturer’s directions before applying over the dry grout. Tape both sides of the grout joint before applying the grout colorant to keep it off the tile and pull the tape per the directions.

  21. Karina jung says:

    I recently installed glaze porcelain tile in my bathroom, and notice the tiles building up brownish stain “ look rust color “ would like to know what cause it and how to get rid of it

    • Donato Pompo says:

      glazed porcelain tiles are impervious. So the only way it can develop a stain is from the surface side of the tile, and not from below the surface.

      If the stain is rust then it came from something else sitting on it. Or it could be a stain from something that splattered on it. I would expect that you should be able to clean it with a neutral base detergent with a soft bristle brush.

  22. Mary B says:

    We just had a porcelain tile floor installed in our bathroom with Mapai unsanded grout. I went to Home Depot and they had two versions of 511 Impregnator sealer – the original and water base. Is there any reason to not use the water base since it will have less odor and our bathroom has very poor ventilation? Does that take longer to dry before it can be walked on? Thank you.

    • Donato Pompo says:

      The water base 511 Impregnator is not likely to penetrate as deep or last as long as the solvent version. It should still work. Using it over a porcelain tile with grout won’t take a lot. Make sure you buff the surface dry after applying or it can leave a residue that is problematic.

    • Donato Pompo says:

      It is not mandatory, but I always recommend sealing cementitious grouts because it does make them more stain resistant and easier to maintain. Although the sealing doesn’t last forever. Normally every 6 months to a year it needs to be reapplied depending on what type of environment it is in and the wear and tear it is subjected to.

  23. Paul Coleman says:

    I have ceramic tiles on my exterior front entrance that has rust stains that I need to remove. Is there a sealer that will prevent them from returning?

    • Donato Pompo says:

      Normally glazed ceramic tiles can only have rust stains on its surface as there is an impervious glaze that doesn’t allow water to pass. For something to rust you need to have moisture that causes the oxidation that creates the rust.

      If you have an unglazed ceramic tile and if it is a porcelain ceramic body then it too is impervious as it can’t have more than 0.5% absorption to be classified as a porcelain tile.

      So there again the rust must becoming from the surface because of something metal sitting on the tile. A sealer will not help. You need to put a mat or a clay dish down first and then put the object causing the rust. It is possible that for a flower pot with dirt it can contain minerals like iron sulfide that can cause rust. There again put a barrier down.

      There are rust removers for natural stone that can be bought at the home centers and tile and stone stores for removing the surface rust stain.

      Now if you have a natural stone the rust staining could be caused my iron sulfide that is naturally contained in some natural stones. Or if you have a metal object under the bottom of the natural stone that is subjected to moisture it can rust and migrate up through the stone. In that case it is very difficult to remove. You can try to use natural stone poultices to try to remove it. Although removing the rust doesn’t prevent it from returning unless you remediate the source of the rust.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *